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Better Than the Creality CR-10? - Anycubic i3 Mega Review

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Anycubic Mega-S Mods

This page works best with JavaScript. Disabling it will result in some disabled or missing features. You can still see all customer reviews for the product. Top positive review. And it's the best one yet! Reviewed in the United States on February 10, I'm hard on 3D printers. I have also tried upgrades, and concluded they are difficult and unnecessary if you buy the right machine.

Here's why: 1. It heats up to C. The new Mega S model has a much better extruder than the original I3, for the same price. They include an extra set of nozzles 0. Because you will want to mess with this printer like an erector set. The second one, does not need upgrading, is what I'm saying. It just works great. This printer has nice little touches and is a tank. Top critical review. Reviewed in the United States on November 13, So, I really wanted to like this printer, Its all metal, and looks like its pretty solid.

But, there is a very big issue with it. The "Z" axis moves the "X" axis up and down and the "Y" axis is the heated print bed. The real issue is the with the "Z" axis, it has two stepper motors, which is great, but it also has two limit switches. But try to get them parallel to each other so they both stop at the same exact time.

That's the real issue. There is a screw on the left and right side that sets the level at when each side stops or "Homes" This should be level to the Heated print bed, Right? Well good luck getting it that way. The heated print bed has the normal thumb screws with springs under the heated surface and a glass top.

Try to get the surface level to print means that it has to be exactly parallel to the print head nozzle no matter where is is in the ""X or "Y" plain, but if the "X" axis is not level from left to right, how are you supposed to get it level with the heated bed?The Anycubic i3 Mega is a solid, metal-framed 3D printer that comes mostly assembled.

Assembly is easy and takes only a few minutes. It is capable of producing high quality prints. Stable construction and fine layer resolution down to 0. Close menu.

Anycubic MEGA X Review

Photon Series. Mega Series. UV Resin. About Anycubic. Affiliate Program Reseller Program. Privacy Policy. Contact us. Request After-sale Service. After-sales Service Polices. Close cart. Filament 1kg PLA. Sold Out. Product Description.

Rigid Metal Frame Stable structure could reduce the body shake during printing and improve the printing quality. Double Z Limit Switches Double Z axis double drive, more powerful and brings more accuracy for leveling.

Fast Assembly Only need to install 8 screws and connect 3 wires before the first print. Quick Start 3 Steps Fast Assembly: Modular design with quick assembly lets you start printing straight away.

Ultrabase Platforms Easy to take off models by hand or with a little help from the scrapper for very large models. Resume Print One click to continue with the last printing from power off. Tool set. Card reader. SD card.These two super-cheap 3D printers are the first buys for many curious beginners, but which really represents the best value?

The Anycubic Mega-S offers a roomy 8. Connectivity options are limited to SD card and tethered USB, but luckily these are secure ways to upload files. Once your SD card in loaded into the machine, the large color touchscreen allows for intuitive control over your machine. Read more in our Anycubic Mega S review. In contrast to the Mega-S, the Creality Ender 3 offers a slightly larger print volume of 8.

Achieve layers as small as microns or as large as microns. The Ender 3 provides slightly more connectivity options than the Mega-S. Unfortunately, the antiquated UI consists of a separate turn-knob unit with a monochrome screen. Of course, you expect this sort of thing from a printer this cheap. Check out our full Creality Ender 3 review here. Despite being so cheap, both of these 3D printers are prized for their sturdy metal construction and impressive print quality.

Despite being so cheap, both the Mega-S and the Ender 3 both exceed expectations in print quality. The differences in these two printers shines brightest when you attempt to answer this question. The first issue is initial assembly. Both the Mega-S and the Ender 3 require some assembly before you get started. The Mega-S takes only eight screws and under and hour for most people to build while the Ender 3 requires much more time and effort.

This means more opportunity for something to go wrong, too, for the less mechanically inclined among us. Another stark difference between these printers is the number of convenience features each provides.

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The bare bones Ender 3 is relatively offers few extras besides Resume Print, which protects your print in case of a power or filament outage. On the other hand, the Mega-S also offers Resume Print in addition to other user-friendly features. These include the Ultrabase, a touchscreen interface, and a broad array of accessories that even includes an extra hot end.

For these reasons, we feel the Anycubic Mega-S is well worth the added expense. The Creality Ender 3 is still the undisputed champion of budget 3D printers. Not only do the Anycubic Mega-S come mostly assembled, which is a huge bonus for new users, but it also features more conveniences for customers of every experience level. Yes, the Mega-S is relatively more expensive than the Ender 3, but we believe most users will find this money well spent. January 12, 0. October 29, 0. March 18, 0. Comments are closed.

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anycubic mega s

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Keep an eye on your inbox for a monthly roundup which includes all of the top content on Electromaker. The Anycubic i3 Mega S is the upgraded model from the i3 Mega. Whilst we haven't tested the original i3 Mega vs Mega S, Anycubic has told us that the i3 Mega S upgrades include a mechanical filament sensor that is able to detect when your filament is running low.

A newly designed extruder which will now handle TPS filament and some other useful features such as power recovery loss have also been included. The Anycubic i3 Mega S was delivered in a large cardboard box which was very well packaged. Every component was snugly held together with polystyrene foam.

Upon opening the box, I was pleasantly surprised with all the added extras that it came with:.

anycubic mega s

I was most impressed with the amount of filament that was provided A fully constructed spare hotend was also provided which was also a nice added extra. A quick flick through the manual filled me with confidence that the construction of the printer would be a breeze as the manual appeared to be very well written with helpful diagrams. Overall, I have been very impressed with the Anycubic i3 Mega S and considering its a "budget" printer, it has exceeded expectations.

Having used it every day for the past three weeks I am happy to say I haven't seen a failed print yet. The main feature that stood out to me was its heated print bed. I honestly believe it's one of the best print beds that I have used. The adhesion I have experienced thus far has been nothing short of amazing. The easy to use touch screen was very responsive and becomes simple to navigate once used a couple of times. Impressive print accuracy is achieved through a sturdy aluminum frame which also lends itself well to print mobility should you ever need to move your 3D printer.

The newly updated filament sensor works as it should, and alerts the user with a loud BEEP and will pause the print should your filament start to run low. To load filament into the machine, the user must feed the filament through the senor which is positioned at the bottom right of the machine. Be warned though, should the end of your filament not be cut at a sharp angle, you will have problems feeding it through.

The SD card reader is mounted on the right side of the printer, right next to the filament holder which can make it tricky to access. Not a major issue, but it would be nice to see it moved to the other side or to the front in a future upgrade. The preheat feature is one that I have used many times and the speed in which the extruder heats up is very impressive.

Overall, the time it takes from switching the printer on to actual printing is very quick. This is due to a combination of things such as the lack of automatic leveling that you get with more expensive printers such as the Prusa i3 MKS. Yes, automatic leveling is a great thing but it will add time to the start of each print. This, combined with the short heating time and a very adhesive bed less time spent reprinting after failed first layers means that you can go from a cold printer to printing those first layers in around mins.Cart 0.

New here? Get your coupon! Please enter the email address account. Change E-mail. I confirm all information provided is my own; I understand and agree it will be used as per the Gearbest Privacy Policy ; I can withdraw my prior consent at any time. Store: Anycubic Official Store 4. Share to:. Brand: Anycubic 4. Price: Save an extra for using the App Scan the QR code to buy: 1. Launch the app and scan the QR code to buy directly. Follow the below steps: 1.

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What is the Better for Your Creation? Description Reviews View More. Suggested Products. Customer Reviews 4. See all 12 reviews Write a Review. All Hottest Most helpful Most recent. Translate into EngLish. Yes 0. Impressora show de bola! Marcos Silveira. Bom produto. Player Zone.Sorry -but when you have used Simplify3D you really never want to use anything else This is the no go point for me I can report a different point of view.

I started my 3D printing career using Simplify as well. Somewhere along the road I felt that they fell behind and switched to Cura, which taunted me with very innovative new features such as dynamic layer height, variable infill and tree support, none of which Simplify could offer at that time. However, somewhere between Cura 3.

So I went back to Simplify whenever I wanted to be totally sure to get a really flawless print. This thread actually sparked my interest towards Prusa Slic3r and I used it for several weeks now. So far, I found a lot to love about it. Firstly, the 3D viewing GUI is as intuitive to handle as it can possibly get. Also, completely opposed to Rimbalins opinion, I mostly like the way PSlic3r arranges its settings in groups that reflect their technical influence.

That way, retract and flow settings are bound to the filament section while speeds are bound to the printing section for example. A separate printer settings tab makes switching between printers a lot easier than every other slicer in this comparison.

Even more complex, there is a retract setting for each extruder but you can optionally overload it with a filament-specific setting in the filament tab. Also, you can decide to duplicate some of your more often changed settings to the main 3D view and you can overload almost every parameter for any single 3D object or even by creating arbitrary 3D regions within your printing space and assigning settings to them!

Simplify's layered "Process" approach also has its merits but the Prusa Slic3r offers the same possibilities at least and quite some more beyond.

But generally, the way they do it makes sense to me and is implemented in a very powerful way. Another plus to me is the way PSlic3er generates support. Though not perfect and also somewhat more limited in the way you can have it placed compared to Simplifiy's really great manual support placer, it actually does often generate really neat support structures which touch your objects just as much as needed and are extremely easy to remove.

Last but not least the lightning fast slicing engine of PSlic3r is worth an honorable mention. On my computer, it surpasses both Simplify3D and Cura by at least times, which makes a notable difference especially on complex structures. I just moved from Cura to PrusaSlicer because of quality issues too.

Not sure if I just not noticed issues at first, but I started with Cura 3. But now, with recent versions it sometimes makes nozzle move along printed path and without retraction, effectively this ozzes away filament and start of next line is heavily under extruded. I know that it is exactly what Combing mode does, but its turned off! I wasted lot of time and filament with this issue Anyway, switched to PrusaSlicer and my problems are gone: Came here by looking for profile too as speed settings are not as high as it was in Cura, so would like to see what other people sets there.

I've been using PrusaSlicer with my Mega-S. I love the new feature in v2. Just right click on the model and hit "Height range modifier".

Then in the right sidebar you can specify height ranges and layer heights e. Lets me really speed up prints by only using thin layers where detail is needed. There's no reason not to: Cura's awful, and by this point all of Simplify3D's formerly-exclusive features have been integrated into Prusa's stuff. I am not the biggest fan of Cura, actually, but here I feel inclined to say: Cura has improved in the last months and incorporated many features that were S3D-exclusive, too.

They also have a unique experimental feature worth mentioning, called dynamic layer heightwhere the slicer actually modifies the layer heights automatically, taking surface complexity and overhangs into account. Works great for me.